Chock Full o’ Chocolate

On Saturday, we enjoyed sea day brunch at a table for ten in the main dining room. Most of our table mates were from Nebraska, and several were veterans, so we talked a little about military stuff. At 10:45 we attended the debarkation talk by the cruise director in the main theater. It was the usual information about the Sunday process of getting rid of 4,200 of us in time for a new 4,200 to take our place and still have the ship sail at 4:00 p.m.

At noon, the captain announced we were making 22 knots through a four-foot swell. While we heard all about weather and maritime data, we were in line for the chocolate buffet, which ended with us completely overstuffed and swearing never to eat chocolate again—until dinner.

At dinner we were seated with two other couples, both from Seattle. The wait staff performed their “goodbye” songs, including a sweet rendition of “(You’re) Leavin’ on a Jet Plane,” and our favorite headwaiter, Yolanda, brought us a heart-shaped dessert with a candle on it for our 34th anniversary. She and her helpers sang “Happy Anniversary” to us. The dessert? Chocolate fudge, of course.

Sunday morning’s debarkation went more smoothly than any we’ve ever experienced. Even U.S. Customs has streamlined their process—no more printed form to fill out. We left the ship, claimed our bags, shuttled to the parking area, and were in our car headed out of Galveston by 10:00 a.m.

As I write this on Sunday evening, there’s laundry in the washer and we’re contemplating our full calendar of activities for tomorrow, as we prepare to immerse ourselves back into “real life,” refreshed, renewed, and, as always, changed for the better by our travel experience.

It’s good to be home.

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City of Angels

As we ate breakfast Friday morning, the captain announced from the bridge that the U.S. State Department had declared a ban on U.S. Government employees’ traveling by ferry service from the island of Cozumel to the Mexican mainland (i.e., to Playa del Carmen, etc.). Therefore, he said, all the ship’s tours that would have utilized that ferry service were canceled. There was no word about the reason for such an action.

A couple of weeks ago, we saw video of one of the ferry boats exploding, in what was at the time believed to be an accident. Don’t have any idea if today’s announcement had anything to do with that or not. Fortunately for us, we were scheduled for something altogether different, but hundreds of passengers were sorely disappointed.

The ship arrived at Cozumel in the Mexican state of Quintana Roo about 10:15 a.m. and was cleared by Mexican officials. Because our stateroom window was facing open water, we were surprised when we debarked to see a total of six cruise ships tied up to the various piers. According to our guide, Cozumel’s population of 10,000 was easily doubled (or even tripled) for the day.

Our tour was again “Give Back with Purpose: Community Tour,” and it did in fact get us out of the tourist areas and into where the real people of the island live and work. A large part of the tour price is donated by Carnival to the places we visit—a church and an orphanage.

Our guide Rafael met us at the pier and herded us through the maze of jewelry and souvenir shops and to our waiting transportation. Not an air-conditioned bus today—it was a big Chevy truck with open-air seating of hard molded plastic.

The first stop was a church, but not San Pedro y San Pablo, as the tour description indicated. Instead, Rafael took us to his own church—San Jose del Mar. As a member of the parish, he helped rebuild it after Hurricane Wilma devastated the city in 2005. It’s just a sweet, plain, neighborhood parish church, but his pride in it was quite evident. He took our group of nine tourists into the church office to meet the secretary, and wanted us to meet the priest, but the padre was on an errand elsewhere.

We drove to the edge of town, past where the paved roads ended, and Rafael showed us the house he is building for his family. He emphasized the line that marked the limit of electrical service, and we couldn’t help but notice that his home-under-construction was on the dark side of the line. It didn’t seem to bother him, though, and he seemed very proud that he and his family would soon own their own cinder block house, rather than living in a rented apartment.

Nearby—and still off the paved roads—we stopped at Ciudad de Angeles, the orphanage we were to visit. Sponsored by Church of Christ and assisted by other Christian denominations, it provides a safe and healthy environment for orphaned, abused, and abandoned children, or, as Julio, our guide through the campus, put it, “the children that nobody wants.” The institution began in 2001 and quickly outgrew a series of houses, so they bought land in 2007 and began building on the current site.

There are several houses to accommodate the 40 kids, eleven of whom are now older than 18. Julio said when a child turns 18, he or she may decide to leave or stay, and so far most of them have stayed—some because they have younger siblings at the facility, and some just because it’s the best place they can imagine living.

We toured several of the homey buildings, staffed by paid house parents. Siblings are housed in the same building, and the general feel is that of families living together. We didn’t get to interact with many of the kids because they were in school off site.

There is a space for music lessons, a community laundry facility, a central basketball/soccer venue, a vegetable garden, and a playscape for the younger kids. Fruit trees dot the campus. Julio pointed out several murals and other art work done by the children. There are two psychologists and a speech therapist on staff, and special needs are fulfilled as funds and other resources are available.

After our tour, Julio invited us to contribute by purchasing T-shirts, mugs, or other souvenirs. Diane chose a necklace with the facility’s angel-wing logo. If you’re interested, you can learn more about Ciudad de Angeles on their website: http://www.ciudaddeangeles.org .

Rafael, our tour guide, then took us back into town to the mercado. After a walk through the market, we proceeded to “a restaurant that is not really a restaurant,” and indeed, it seemed to be kind of like a restaurant, but in someone’s home. Our lunch of milanesa de res was quite good. (When one of our table mates asked what it was, I said that in Texas we would call it chicken fried steak.)

A few miles on the open-air truck back through the city and we were at the pier, where we reboarded Breeze, being careful to choose the correct big white ship. As we prepared for dinner, and with the sun sinking below the horizon, she cast off her lines and departed to the north, heading toward Galveston, Texas, where we were due to arrive early Sunday morning.

Here are a few photos from our day:

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Cozumel hosted a total of six large cruise ships the day we were there, but the town seemed equipped to handle such a tourist invasion.

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Our wheels for the day.

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The church of San Jose del Mar.

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Both side walls of the church are filled with stained glass windows, the lower series depicting the Stations of the Cross.

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Diane’s shot of a stained glass window inside the church. This one depicts a Christmas scene.

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Wall hanging inside the church. The Spanish translates as: “Am I not here, that I am your Mother?”

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Rafael made sure we passed by the site of the house he’s building. (And by “he’s building,” I mean with his own two hands.) When it’s done, there still won’t be electricity at the site.

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Julio, the PR person for Ciudad de Angeles, showed us some murals painted by the kids.

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Diane’s photo of photos of some of the residents of Ciudad de Angeles.

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The orphanage does have electricity, but they get their water from this well. They also are constructing more buildings as they receive donations.

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Carlos, one of the over-18 residents at Ciudad de Angeles. He’s attending university and studying TV communications.

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Alicia works in the laundry at the orphanage. Julio said that because electricity is so expensive, after washing the clothes she runs them up a rudimentary elevator through a hole in the roof, where they utilize “solar technology” to dry them.

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Fruits and vegetables for sale in the market.

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The “restaurant that’s not a restaurant.” It’s really someone’s house.

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Our guide Rafael with the lady who runs the restaurant in her home.

 

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Caving In

On Thursday morning our alarm sounded at six o’clock, but sunlight was already streaming into our cabin through the crack between the drapes. The ship stayed on Galveston time, even though we traveled considerably east, so we were an hour earlier than local time as we anchored off George Town on Grand Cayman Island.

Our tour required us to assemble in the theater at 6:45, so we didn’t have time to eat breakfast, having consciously chosen to sleep, rather than eat. Hundreds of passengers queued up for dozens of tours, most of which began to run together and sound like “Segway Snorkel Stingray Dolphin Beach Swim Encounter Adventure Experience,” or words to that effect.

Although our tour also was billed as an “adventure,” it was different than the others, being titled “Crystal Caves Adventure,” and involved a trip inland to see whatever Crystal Caves turned out to be.

The first step in going ashore was clambering down several levels of crew staircases to get to the tender platform, where a contracted tender boat awaited. Its signage indicated a maximum passenger load of 320 people, and we pretty well filled it before it shoved off and made the short trip to the dock. After a little hurrying up to wait, we finally were met by our driver, Beres, who ushered us into his large, air-conditioned bus.

Unable to find the remaining two passengers who were supposed to be on his tour, Beres soon had us on the road while he gave us basic information about the Cayman Islands. It’s still a British colony, and we noticed the befitting accent and driving pattern. Currency is the Cayman Islands Dollar, which equates to about US$1.20.

Cayman Islands were “discovered” by Christopher Columbus, claimed for Spain, and originally named Las Tortugas (the turtles). When the British took over, they renamed it Cayman for a type of local crocodile. There are three islands—Grand Cayman (which we visited), Cayman Brac, and Little Cayman.

Beres said he is Jamaican, but likes working in the Cayman Islands, and he gave us more detail than we wanted about immigration laws and rules. He said Cayman’s top two industries are tourism and banking. Indeed, we later counted six cruise ships (including ours) anchored in the harbor, and tour buses criss-crossed all the roads. Beres said Grand Cayman is the safest Caribbean island, and of the 65,000 population, about half are immigrants, representing 120 different countries.

After mysteriously receiving some sort of message, Beres pulled off the road and waited for the two tardy passengers to be delivered to us by another bus. The red-faced young couple received a rousing ovation as they boarded our bus.

We rode past a Montessori School, the governor’s residence, and lots of beautifully landscaped residential lots and homes. We stopped for a moment to view a large beachfront mansion, valued at US$59.5 million. Beres said it is owned by an American family, the man of which “works for the U.S. government. That’s the only information they gave us,” he said. Hmmm. Most federal employees we’ve known aren’t candidates for that sort of housing. Hmmm.

Grand Cayman is the fifth largest banking center in the world, containing more banks per acre than any other place in the world, and boasting very liberal banking regulations. Hmmm.

Beres said that local farmers produce only about five percent of the island’s food, the rest of which must be imported. The land is not amenable to farming, being either too rocky or too swampy. He said there’s a big water desalinization plant to provide fresh water.

The largest wildlife on the island are the wild chickens that range freely, having been liberated during the various hurricanes that have hit, the most recent serious one having been in 2004.

We passed through some rural areas, then through Savannah, through Bodden Town, and into the North Side. Finally, turning off the paved road, we jounced along a hilly, twisty caliche road to arrive at the entrance to Crystal Caves. There we were handed off to Jermaine, the cave guide for our group of twelve.

Over 100 caves have been discovered on the property, beginning in the early 1900s, and their age is estimated at ten to seventeen million years. The “Crystal” descriptor refers to some of the mineral deposits, such as silica, that glitter and give some of the formations a shimmery appearance, although I think it was a bit of a stretch to name the whole complex for what little glitter we saw.

Jermaine escorted us through Open-Ceiling Cave, Roots Cave, and Lakes Cave, each named for its most notable feature. The highlight was Lakes Cave, with . . . yes, an underground lake.

We returned by bus to the tender dock, shopped long enough to buy a Cayman Islands cap, caught the next tender boat back to the ship, and headed straight for the Lido to have breakfast/lunch at about 12:30 p.m. The last tender left the dock at 3:00 p.m., and, once everybody was back on board, Breeze weighed anchor and set a course for our final port of call, Cozumel, Mexico, where we were due to arrive at 10:15 on Friday morning.
A few photos from our day:

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We took a tender boat from the ship to the dock in George Town.

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Cave guide Jermaine was a wealth of information about all three caves he led us through.

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This garden snake stretched across our path from one cave to the next. It was the only wildlife we saw except for fruit bats that flitted into and out of all the caves.

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The serrated pattern on this formation inside one of the caves caught our eye.

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Inside “Roots Cave.” The roots of the fig trees up above descend right through the limestone, seeking water. Other trees common to the area are mahogany and red birch.

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Stalactites take about 25 years to grow downward one inch. Stalagmites take longer to grow upward.

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My favorite cave woman.

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The trail we followed inside Lakes Cave.

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The underground lake. Jermaine said it extends for hundreds of feet “around the corner,” where we couldn’t see.

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The last of our group exiting the mouth of Lakes Cave. The roots are another example of how the fig trees attempt to get water.

 

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“One Love”–Yah Mon

Carnival’s Breeze arrived and docked by 8:15 a.m. Wednesday at Montego Bay, Jamaica. Our tour was entitled “Community Tour: Giving Back with Purpose,” and we learned that a portion of what we paid for the tour would be donated to the school we would visit.

Local officials cleared the ship, and we were off before 10:00 a.m. I scored a “Jamaica” cap from the row of vendor stands just outside the terminal, and, rather than carry it with us on the tour, I reboarded and dropped it in our cabin. Back in the terminal, we were still early for our tour, so we sat on a luggage conveyor belt while we waited, hoping it wouldn’t suddenly start moving!

Our guide Michelle gathered us and herded us onto a big air-conditioned bus and we were off. The first thing we noticed was that Bruce, our driver, drove on the left side of the road, a reminder of the British heritage of this island. We also noticed Michelle’s excellent but accented English, peppered with yah mon’s, but when she spoke to Bruce, we couldn’t understand the patois that blended Spanish, English, French, Dutch, and Portuguese, another reminder of the island’s colonial history.

We rode through the center of Montego Bay, and as we passed a gas station Michelle pointed out the price in Jamaican dollars per liter. She said that if you do the math, it comes out to about US$6.30 per gallon. When passengers flinched, she said the locals were happy with the price, since it was down recently from about $9.00.

We passed through Sharpe Square, centered around a monument to slave and Baptist lay preacher Sam Sharpe, who led a slave rebellion in 1831. The English savagely put down the rebellion, including executing Sharpe in 1832, but it served to convince them that the time had come to end the enslavement of African people, and Sam Sharpe is recognized as a national hero of Jamaica.

We passed one of the two post offices in Montego Bay (“MoBay” to the locals), and Michelle said there is no mail delivery—if you’re expecting something, you go pick it up at the post office. We made a photo stop at St. James Parish (Anglican) Church, then continued out of town, past the Montego Bay Cricket Club and out a narrow winding rural road.

Michelle gave us some interesting factoids about Jamaica:

  • The main industries are agriculture, tourism, and mining.
  • Eighty percent of the trees bear edible fruit.
  • There are no venomous snakes, but lots of crocodiles, iguanas, and mongooses (mongeese?).
  • School attendance is mandatory beginning at age three.
  • Universal health care and college education are both provided via the 16.5% sales tax and the 33% income tax.
  • There are five colleges and universities on the island.

We arrived at Mount Olive Basic School, where the student body of three- and four-year-olds sang several songs for us, concluding with Bob Marley’s “One Love.” Today was “Jamaica Day,” a special day throughout the educational structure to emphasize the island’s history and culture, so these students, as well as others we saw from other schools, were decked out in various combinations of the national colors—green, black, and gold. And there were more than a few Usain Bolt “lightning” poses when our cameras came out!

Carnival Cruise Line and the local tour operator have donated enough to the school recently to provide a new lunchroom, computer room, and library.

From the school we traveled a short distance to our final stop: John’s Hall Plantation. There, we enjoyed a nature walk, during which the guides pointed out and explained uses for lots of the native plants—cocoa, coffee, pineapple, sugar cane, bananas, coconut. We climbed a hill farther into the lush forest to an open air restaurant, where we were treated to a Jamaican buffet lunch, including roasted yams, jerk pork, fried plantains, jerk chicken, and other delicacies.

Back on the bus, we made our way back into the city, passing Sam Sharpe Teacher’s College, and back to the pier. We cleaned up and by the time we were heading for dinner in the Sapphire Dining Room, Breeze was letting go her lines and setting a course for the overnight sail to the port of Georgetown on Grand Cayman Island, where we were due to arrive at 7:15 on Thursday morning.

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On our way off the ship, we noticed this sign.

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When Breeze arrived, Norwegian Jade was already tied up. Between the two vessels, we significantly increased the population of Montego Bay for the day.

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Through the bus window, Sam Sharpe Square in the center of Montego Bay. The sculpture commemorates the national hero of Jamaica.

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Inside St. James Church, the balcony was home to the pipes for the organ, and also to the steel band, “Pans of Praise.” Although no one was playing, we could almost hear the music!

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On Jamaica Day, everybody rocked the national colors.

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One of our fellow passengers was this young lady, whose hair proved irresistible to the kids . . .

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. . . and she soon became the center of attention!

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Same as everywhere, some kids are loners . . .

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. . . while others are a little more outgoing!

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Our tour guide, Michelle, was a magnet for the kids from the school. Michelle lives in Negril, in the western part of Jamaica.

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At John’s Hall Plantation, the vegetation is beautiful and lush.

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A cocoa pod. One pod contains dozens of beans, which can be dried and roasted.

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At John’s Hall Plantation, Diane posed with this little guy.

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Even though our anniversary isn’t until Saturday, Disna, our cabin steward, left us this greeting on the mirror in our room.

 

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My Chest Isn’t Hairy Enough

Sunday night, the gentle motion of the ship rocked us to sleep in our oddly shaped cabin. It’s on Deck 2, starboard side, and it’s just on the aft corner, where the starboard side becomes the stern. So our window looks out at an angle—partly to the right of the ship’s track and partly to the rear. It’s a little strange to feel like we’re on the starboard side, but then to look out and see the wake trailing off at a 45-degree angle. But the room is larger than we’re used to, so it’s good.

I began Monday with a turn on the stationary bike in the fitness center on Deck 12, forward. According to my FitBit, I got as much exercise walking to and from the fitness center as I did on the bike; this ship is really big!

Eating breakfast at the sea day brunch, we sat with a couple from Virginia Beach. He’s retired after 24 years in the Navy and now works for a firm that does contract work for the Navy. He probably does the same work, but for better pay.

We went to the main theater for an orientation talk (designed primarily, it turned out, to sell us stuff—shore excursions, jewelry, art, “premium” dining experiences, etc.), but arrived early, so we endured the end of the bingo session, emceed by a woman with a really cheesy patter. During the orientation, I was amused that the attempt to sell us a “Beach Day & Sea Lion Show” shore excursion in Cozumel emphasized how close we could get to the sea lions, comparing it to Sea World, rather than anything in nature.

At noon, our Italian captain made his daily announcement in heavily accented English, indicating we were making 18 knots across the Gulf of Mexico. We welcomed the sun’s first brief appearance.

Diane attended a shopping presentation, which included the hard sell of a “FREE Coupon Book, with hundreds of dollars worth of coupons, including a FREE selfie stick, FREE this, and FREE that.” In the fine print, just above the line for your signature was a statement to the effect that “I hereby authorize the deduction of $25.00 from my shipboard account . . . .”

Diane reported that, as she exited the theater, she overheard some young men discovering what they’d signed and exclaiming, “I’m gonna make ’em give me my f***ing twenty-five dollars back!” This whole episode seems to be in keeping with the constant opportunities to obtain Carnival’s “free” app for our phones—only five dollars for the entire cruise!

At lunchtime in the Lido, lured by Key lime pie, I fell completely off the low-carb wagon, vowing to resume it upon our arrival home. Diane enjoyed an afternoon nap while I did some reading. That evening was our first “elegant night,” and we discovered that dress standards on this cruise are quite different from what we experienced on Holland America. Here, “elegant” means no cut-offs, flip-flops, or baseball caps, rather than “Gentlemen may wear tuxedos, but must wear a jacket and tie.” The lobster tail was really good, though.

Diane enjoyed the Motown show in the main theater, while I continued to work through the novel I’m reading, No Motive in Murdoch, by our friend J. L. Bass.

Tuesday morning began with another visit to the stationary bike, and another sea day brunch. Diane discovered she really liked the huevos rancheros! After brunch, we visited the ship’s library, which contains about a dozen books. Diane found one of them to her liking, and has been enjoying reading What is it All but Luminous: Notes from an Underground Man by Art Garfunkel.

We resisted the temptation of the morning’s featured entertainment: “Men’s Hairiest Chest Contest.” Actually, I’m just assuming it was limited to men, but it must have been a real crowd pleaser, at any rate.

The captain’s noon announcement indicated we’re still making 17.5 knots through a three-foot swell, but now in the Caribbean Sea. Tomorrow’s weather in Montego Bay is forecast to be sunny and 80 degrees.

We have been singularly impressed with how several of the dining room stewards remember us after only one day. Several of them have called us by name when they saw us for only the second time. Many of them are Indonesian and Filipino, but they’ve told us that more than 60 countries are represented among the crew. Our assistant steward at lunch, for example, was Sergii, from Ukraine.

Diane visited the Guest Services desk and changed our shore excursion for tomorrow from one that featured lots of shopping to one that includes a visit to a school. I’m sure we’ll like that better, even though it lasts longer.

Some other photos from the last couple of days:

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On sailaway day from Galveston, we encountered car ferries as we navigated toward the channel.

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At the sailaway party, cruise director Schwartz exhorted the crowd, via the big screen, to “have some fun!”

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Not sure the pizza guy wanted his photo made, but I did it anyway.

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The view through our stateroom window on Monday evening.

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We have accumulated a small menagerie of towel animals in our room, but they’re very quiet at night.

 

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On the Ship Again

On Sunday morning, we were up early and on the treadmill at the hotel (and by “we,” I mean “me”). We enjoyed the complimentary breakfast at the hotel, checked out, and took a random drive around Galveston, during which we stumbled upon the Texas A&M University – Galveston campus. There’s a large “Maritime Academy” building, which we later learned is one of five state-sponsored maritime academies in the U.S.

We arrived early at the cruise terminal, dropped off our luggage, and navigated to the cruise parking lot. A shuttle bus returned us to the terminal, where we were shepherded through the check-in and security process, and were allowed to board much sooner than we expected. The catch was that our room wouldn’t be ready for a couple of hours, so we were left to wander around the ship, but with our (heavy) hand luggage in tow.

They were serving barbecue on the outside deck, and since we had to be somewhere, we decided we might as well be eating while we waited for our room to be opened to us.

The 3:00 p.m. safety briefing required that we report to one of the large dining rooms, along with a thousand or so of our closest friends. (The head count for this cruise is around 4,200!) The whole thing was an exercise in crowd control, and, considering the size of the throng and the fact that many passengers had already been drinking for several hours, the crew did an outstanding job of managing it.

After unpacking, we wandered some more, including dropping in on the sail-away party on the pool deck, touring the fitness center, and, most importantly, ironing out a glitch in our assigned dining schedule.

Right on schedule at 4:00 p.m., Breeze eased away from the pier and headed for sea, escorted out the channel by a Coast Guard boat with a machine gunner on the bow.

We enjoyed dinner in the main dining room, meeting some fellow cruisers who turned out to be all Texans—from Houston, San Antonio, and Kingsland.

Monday and Tuesday are sea days, and we should arrive at Montego Bay, Jamaica, early Wednesday morning.

A few photos from today:

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The main theater of the ship was empty when we boarded, except for a couple of the workers getting it ready for the night.

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As we strolled the outside deck, we noticed some people formally dressed. Turned out to be a wedding party. We’re not sure if we arrived just before or just after the ceremony!

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The bride was posing for pictures out on the deck.

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Our room has no chair (so far), so Diane had to be creative to find a comfortable place to sit.

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Our escort out through the channel.

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Fitness center, on Deck 12.

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At the sail-away party, DJ-dBiz had hundreds of people dancing and singing on the pool deck. (And yes, it was loud!)

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On the Road Again

Diane and I rose early Saturday morning, finished packing, and hit the road. We drove out of Austin on U.S. 290 and made our way to La Grange, Texas, where Diane’s sister, Jo, was participating in the “21st Annual Best Little Quilt Show in Texas.”

Although we always enjoy visiting with Jo, I must confess that a quilt show wasn’t near the top of my list for entertainment opportunities, but I also can now report that it was actually a pretty cool experience. I was expecting quilts. What we saw was art! Some of the designs were very clever, almost all were beautiful in one way or another, and, while I know nothing about quilting, it all appeared to be the result of a LOT of work.

The show is a project of the Colorado Valley Quilt Guild, composed of 135 quilters from counties along the Colorado River valley, including Fayette, Colorado, Bastrop, Lee, and Lavaca. They are an active group. Community service has always been a major part of guild activities with projects such as small quilts for area nursing homes and child advocacy groups. They also hold workshops, sponsor quilting bees, and send members to the International Quilt Festival in Houston each year.

Overall, this was quite an educational experience for me.

Diane and I continued our car trip through downtown Houston and made our way onto Galveston Island, where we are comfortably established in a Best Western facing the seawall and Gulf of Mexico. The whole day has been gray and gloomy, but without too much rain for the drive. It’s also been remarkably warm, and we’re wondering if we packed enough shorts and T-shirts for the next week.

Tomorrow, we board Carnival Cruise Line’s ms Breeze, which is scheduled to sail at 4:00 p.m., headed for Jamaica, the Cayman Islands, and Cozumel. This will be the largest ship we’ve cruised on, and we’re eager to explore the ship and the ports.

A few photos from today:

 

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Jo and Diane with one of Jo’s quilts.

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Jo with two of the four quilts she had in the show.

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There were some spectacular designs.

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Some very colorful designs, too.

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Romanticizing about the good ol’ days.

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Makes you want to reach out and feel the contour, but it’s a flat quilt!

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I laughed at this guy’s head tilt. Whoever did this one knows dogs!

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The view from our balcony at the Best Western.


			

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